Introducing The Flower Project and the Floral Compost Activator

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Katrina Wolff shares the story of The Flower Project, a global experiment in compost alchemy that blends biodynamic principles with nature communication.

Being a biodynamic gardener who doesn’t own land means, every now and then, it’s time to relocate. 

Moving house often means it’s just not possible to bury compost preparations in the ground in autumn, to dig up in spring. It was Christmas 2024 when I realised my time on this particular piece of land was coming to an end, and I vividly remember the sadness and frustration at missing out on a season of prep-making.

Thanks to the suggestion of an American biodynamic teacher, I had a look at the work of Maye Bruce, who in the 1930s devised a way to use the so-called ‘biodynamic’ herbs and flowers to enhance her compost in remarkable ways. 

What a surprise it was to discover that this method was so much more than a compromise, and that it would allow for my nature communication practice to find a new avenue; that the research would inspire a global community of composters; that I’d get invited to present the work at the upcoming International Biodynamic Research Conference in England, take part in a global project researching soil sovereignty from a more-than-human perspective, and contribute a section (‘C for Compost’) in a book Language of Soil, writing as a Nature Communicator. 

2025 has been a wild ride.
It’s also proving to be a painful upgrade. I have not yet found a new home, and yet somehow, despite feeling physically ‘lost’ and questioning if I should even stay in New Zealand, I am also probably the most connected I’ve ever felt to the spirit of Blue Borage,1 the wishes of the soil, and the urgent need for widespread landscape healing using biodynamic tools, especially in urban centres.

There’s a new plant ally playing a very, very important role in this work – harakeke, often called New Zealand Flax. The study of Raranga (Māori weaving) was an extension of three years of Hua Parakore study, when I realised I wanted a more tactile way to learn about Māori culture, language, customs, and how my work could be a tool for decolonisation. 

And so, it feels like Blue Borage has become, on the one hand, all about elevating the status of harakeke plants in the community and, on the other, about running experiments on all possible uses of the Floral Compost Activator method, using nature communication to talk with compost piles all over the world. 

Thank you to the Blue Borage followers and customers who have pretty much funded this 2025 year of research and study and preparing to move house – I could not have done it without your help. 

So, what is the Floral Compost Activator method? 

In short, it’s taking the same flowers and herbs we use for the biodynamic compost preparations, but instead of searching for stag bladders and sheep skulls, you just need a glass jar and a dab of honey. I recommend finding honey that has a relationship with your garden – it’s a chance to go and meet your local beekeepers. The bees have asked for us to be loving caretakers, and help free them from cold, transactional, often exploitative relationships.

The first batch I made was used in a particularly smelly batch of food scraps containing meat, fish, dairy, bread, citrus, onions – all the things we’re often told not to include in a home compost system. It was the middle of summer, I was low on greens for the compost, and I was  tired from the endless watering of the garden (my garden hose didn’t work, so I was filling buckets of water from the kitchen sink.)

Odour fixed, with one application.

The next batch went into a hot compost pile built around a deceased chicken, which also got a bit stinky (again, I was lacking the optimal materials for a nice hot compost pile in summer). It was mid February, and I had about 30 jars of dried flowers and herbs, following Maye Bruce’s advice to experiment with more flowers than the handful recommended by Rudolf Steiner. I tuned in with the chicken compost in a nature communication session, asked what would help it decompose more easily, and was given a list of a dozen plants, including fennel, tansy, rose and lavender. I made up the mixture following Maye Bruce’s method, and within three hours of adding the Floral Compost Activator, the smell had vanished. Gone. Just like that. 

Over and over again, the recipe has sped up small-scale composting and effectively dealt with odours, maggots, and fruit flies. It has even improved the speed of composting for my weaving scraps – if anyone ever tells you that it’s not possible to compost harakeke, please send them my way.

Where it’s working well:

  • Mortality composting, like the near-miraculous odour reduction in a dead chicken trial.  
  • Stinky food scraps, both in cubic-metre hot compost and small-scale indoor composting using the Pacha Compost system, a small-scale composting unit made from unglazed terracotta. 
  • Maggot and fruit fly dispersal, as seen in the autumn batch of ‘peach pit’ compost. 
  • Worm farms, especially when adding meat, dairy, bread, onions, citrus. All odours have vanished, and the worms seem plumper and more vigorous. 
  • Seedlings fed with the Floral Compost Activator have shown noticeably stronger early winter growth. 
  • Humanure systems. I’ve used a variation of Maye’s recipe with the six basic biodynamic herbs: yarrow, chamomile, dandelion, valerian, nettle and oak bark, with  added rose and lavender. I use this inside, both in the toilet bucket as well as in the cover material. 

Where it’s not working: 

I lost track of the number of flowers when I got to 50 different varieties, so it’s time to refine my labelling, drying and storage systems. 

I don’t think it is anywhere near as effective as the traditional biodynamic compost preparations. The finished compost from green waste doesn’t break down as finely, and the sticks and logs from the finished compost don’t snap as easily as when I treat piles of woody material with Preparations 502-507. It comes close to looking like compost that’s had cow manure added, but it’s missing a magical, mystical, ‘heavenly’ feeling. 

I picked the bulk of my flowers in summer, especially the valerian and chamomile, and made the mistake of storing the dried flowers in open glasses. I’m still harvesting yarrow, dandelion, nettle and oak in New Zealand winter, but worry that the valerian and chamomile may have lost a bit of their freshness. I have now switched to sealed containers in a cupboard that gets no direct light. 

Next directions:

  • Test the remedy as a seed bath, comparing it with CPP (Cow Pat Pit preparation)
  • Begin formal rongoā studies to learn about indigenous Māori plants within a supported learning community. 

Partial Conclusions (as at August 2025)

The research is ongoing, but my gut feeling is clear: the Floral Compost Activator is a really helpful tool. It’s ideal as a yummy treat for worm farms and seedlings, or as a quick fix for a particularly smelly batch of compost that doesn’t justify a full set of purchased biodynamic preparations. 

It’s also a great way of infusing each compost pile with the unique energy of a property, using a DIY treatment that can be added to a compost pile on a regular basis. See the picture below of me showing the method to students at Tipene St Stephen’s boarding school, south of Auckland in the Bombay Hills, on the day they installed their brand new Carbon Cycle Compost system.

Way back in January 2025, that very first batch of the activator was used on the summer food scraps from the brand new Tipene teachers, who were preparing to open the school after a closure of 20 years

There’s a similar ‘full circle’ moment at the International Biodynamic Research Conference, hosted by the Royal Agriculture University in Cirencester. Maye Bruce lived in Sapperton, a 90- minute walk from the conference. The anthroposophical agriculture movement refused to listen to Maye Bruce’s ideas in the 1930s, and I’m ever so curious to see if there’s a change of heart 90 years on. Is there more room now for inquiry, experimentation, and diversity? 

Maye’s method pairs beautifully with biodynamics and also with nature communication. It invites us to work with flowers, herbs and tree bark in an intuitive way, and I believe every garden and farm will have its own signature blends uniquely suited to that place  in each season. 

My invitation to the New Zealand biodynamic community: grow more flowers, and more herbs. Let’s consciously incorporate them into our composting systems, not just for aesthetics, but as active co-creators in soil transformation.

Floral Compost Activator Recipe 

Inspired by Maye Bruce, 1879-1964.

This Floral Compost Activator was originally known as the ‘Quick Return’ or QR Compost Activator. Developed by British soil pioneer Maye Bruce, it was her answer to making biodynamic composting more accessible for home gardeners. It’s still sold globally – in Germany it is called Humofix. Others have likely taken the recipe, changed the name, omitted  the ingredients, or given no credit to Maye Bruce.2 

Maye was guided by the phrase, “The divinity within the flower is sufficient of itself.” As a flower lover, I’ve taken the principle to heart at Blue Borage, and we honour her legacy while continuing to experiment with many other flowers and herbs. You can follow this work on Substack at The Flower Project 3, a living workshop and global community research project created as a collaboration with urban biodynamic gardener Kate Heming Panchal in Toronto.

Some of the plant material I am using: yarrow, chamomile, dandelion, nettle, valerian, oak, fennel, tansy, borage, calendula, lavender, rose, chicory, mint, thyme, oregano, rosemary, geranium, lemon verbena, strawberry, hollyhock, chives, clover, catnip, gorse, and selfheal. 

Basic recipe 

Preparing to make it: 

  • Grow the following plants: yarrow, chamomile, stinging nettle, dandelion, valerian and oak (often called  the ‘basic six’).
  • Pick the flowers early in the morning and dry them to store for the season ahead. The method also works with fresh flowers, although the volume of fresh flowers will appear greater  than when dried.

To make the Floral Compost Activator:

  • Combine one pinch each of dried flowers: yarrow, chamomile, dandelion, and valerian.
  • Add a pinch of dried nettle leaves. 
  • Add a pinch of oak bark in powdered form. 
  • Add a dab of honey, and mix into 1 litre of water.
  • Shake well to blend. Let it sit for at least 24 hours, shaking occasionally.
  • Dilute further with water when using. Maye recommended up to a 1:10,000 dilution, though others use it in different dilutions. Follow your instincts, and experiment.

For dry storage or posting: Mix ½ teaspoon honey with about ½ cup lactose powder (milk sugar) to form a shelf-stable honey powder. Blend this with the dried herbs instead of honey on its own. 

My current estimate is that 1 teaspoon of dried, powdered herbs (including either just honey or honey plus lactose powder) is enough to treat 2 large compost piles (about 1,000 litres of activator).

How to use it

Compost piles: Sprinkle over each layer as you build the pile, or poke holes (about 20cm apart) into a finished heap and pour approximately half a cup into each. If you are building in layers, then I highly recommend premixing each layer to ensure the greens and browns are well distributed throughout the pile. 

Worm farms: Sprinkle over the surface, or make holes and pour the liquid into them.. Either way, the worms will distribute it.

Food scrap buckets: Again, sprinkle over the surface area or make a hole in the contents (once it’s about half full), and pour in small quantities of the liquid.

Compost toilets: Sprinkle the liquid Floral Compost Activator into the toilet, either halfway through filling the bucket or if/when there’s a noticeable smell.

Seedlings: Apply onto soil around the base of seedlings.

As with all plant-based remedies, the best results come from developing a personal relationship with the ingredients. Grow whatever you can. Talk with the plants. Observe them as they flower, harvest mindfully, and trust that the garden itself will tell you what it needs.

I encourage anyone curious about this method to study Maye Bruce’s original text, Common Sense Compost Making, and join us at The Flower Project for shared experiments, weekly updates, seasonal reflections and global compost coaching via Zoom.


Katrina Wolff is a Compost Consultant, Nature Communicator, Weaver, and founder of Blue Borage, helping people, businesses and communities make exquisite compost. She is presented at the International Biodynamic Research Conference in September of 2026.

Click here to view Katrina’s instagram or view her work on Substack here.

This article was first published in the Spring/Summer 2025 edition of Harvests Magazine

A closer look at Cow Pat Pit 

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Gita Krenek investigates the origins of this popular biodynamic preparation, revealing how it’s now being used in a range of different ways.

Cow Pat Pit (CPP) is fairly widely used by biodynamic practitioners in New Zealand, Australia and India, less widely in other parts of the world. The focus of this article is not the practical making and spreading of CPP. Instead, I’ll be looking more closely into the background of CPP, and the diversity of ideas about it.

CPP is not one of the original preparations given by Rudolf Steiner as part of the Agriculture Course in 1924. Rather, it is a way of bringing some of these preparations – specifically the six preparations intended to be used in a compost heap – out onto the land, in situations where it is not possible to make or spread compost itself. Briefly, and to oversimplify, cow manure is mixed with ground eggshells and basalt meal, and ‘kneaded’ for one hour to activate or “dynamise” it. It is then put into either a half barrel that has been half sunk into the ground, or a pit dug into the ground and lined with bricks or timber. The compost preparations are inserted, the barrel or pit covered, and left for 3-4 months. At the end of this time, the manure has decomposed and can be spread onto the land – either as is (crumbled) or stirred in water in the same way as Prep 500, but for only 10-20 minutes.

Some people nowadays are modifying the original recipe to include up to 50% nettles. According to Chateau Monty(1) , doing so “appears to regulate plant health and growth”. But there is no research mentioned to support this rather vague statement. (For detailed instructions on making CPP, refer to the Biodynamic Association’s booklet Other Biodynamic Measures). So far, so good.

The cow manure, during its time in the pit, has become permeated by the energies of the compost preparations, allowing it to carry their effect when applied to the land. Why, then, the addition of eggshells and basalt? The prevailing reasoning within the biodynamic community goes like this: eggshells are high in calcium, basalt meal is high in silica. Steiner talked about calcium and silica being polar opposites in some ways. So therefore, we assume it must be about the calcium-silica polarity. What if I told you that basalt is actually low in silica? Sure, it’s composed of 45-52% silica, but geologically speaking, that is considered low. As a comparison, granite is 73% silica. If the primary aim was to include silica, wouldn’t a different rock much higher in silica, like granite, have been used instead? To understand why basalt and eggshells are included, we need to take a step back in time to the origins of the preparation. Who invented CPP, and why?

CPP has its origins in the atomic bomb tests of the 1950s, which released harmful radioactive fallout into the environment. One of the byproducts of nuclear fusion is Strontium-90, a radioactive isotope, which is absorbed by plants through their roots. When these plants are consumed by animals or humans, it can enter and accumulate in the food chain, posing serious health risks. Against this backdrop, a research Institute in Germany noted that plants growing in soils rich in calcium had less uptake of Strontium-90 than sandy soils high in silica.

This research was seen by Maria Thun, known for her pioneering work in biodynamic farming and the influence of constellations on plant growth. Inspired by it, Maria collaborated with German scientist Ehrenfried Pfeiffer to find a calcium-based remedy for radioactive fallout. They investigated 9 different substances rich in calcium to see if any could work via the soil to hinder the plants’ uptake of Strontium. Two of these nine were eggshells and basalt, and in the end, only these two were found to be effective. Did you notice that: the basalt was included for its calcium content. So actually CPP (or “barrel compost,” as Maria Thun called it) was invented as a carrier for calcium. Thun tried various methods for making the calcium available to plants on a large scale, including using cow horns in a similar way to Prep 500.

In the end, she found using the compost preparations through the medium of manure to be the most effective; which is not surprising given the ability of the preps to enhance microbial activity and speed up the breakdown of organic material in soil. Now the story gets more interesting. After the Chernobyl nuclear accident, an unnamed researcher reportedly travelled around Europe testing crops for fallout. He claimed that crops grown on farms using biodynamic preparations combined with CPP had lower levels of Strontium-90 compared to those that only used the biodynamic preparations without CPP.

This claim is sometimes cited in articles about CPP, with statements such as, “After Chernobyl, only farms using CPP were protected from radioactive damage.” However, there is no verifiable evidence to support this statement. The researcher, unwilling to have his name associated with the research, allegedly destroyed his documents, leaving the claim without any factual backing. Later documented field experiments(2) carried out after Chernobyl did not reveal any differences between organic soils, biodynamic soils, and soils that are treated with both biodynamic preparations and CPP. However, trial procedures were not watertight and the results may not be dependable. But Maria Thun was not finished with the question.

In 2006 a research trial(3) was carried out by the Institute for Nutrition Research in Braunschweig together with Maria Thun to find out whether “barrel preparation” (CPP) could reduce the uptake of uranium by plants grown in contaminated soil. High levels of uranium were measured in the grass roots of all plants in the trial; however significantly less uranium was detected in the green shoots of the plants treated with CPP compared to the control group. However, this wasn’t an entirely straightforward trial, as the mix the CPP plants were growing in contained 15% solid CPP. The plants were also sprayed with CPP and preparations 500 and 501.

Nevertheless, the results appeared to offer some validation for Thun’s ideas. Of sorts. Here in New Zealand, we don’t worry too much about nuclear fallout. So it raises the question: how crucial is it for us Kiwis to keep including these eggshell and basalt additives? What would happen if we didn’t? Now, let’s look at people’s reasons nowadays world wide for using CPP. What is CPP used for? Here we enter a veritable minefield. Everyone seems to have an opinion – some more fanciful than others. I think a bit of the “Chinese Whispers” effect has been at work, with details changing or becoming exaggerated as they’re passed along.

I think it’s helpful to remember that CPP is essentially decomposed cow manure acting as a carrier for the compost preparations and calcium. So whatever composted cow manure and the compost preps do, that’s what we can expect CPP to do. There is nothing really “magical” about it apart from that. I have found the most common sense description comes from the [International Biodynamic] Federation’s Best Practice Manual.(4) “The activity of micro-organisms in particular is stimulated by the preparation. It promotes the breakdown of organic matter to humus in the soil, compost and manure; promotes soil life, improves soil structure and water retention. Microbes also play an important role in making nutrients available to plants and increasing their resistance against disease.” Pretty well everything stated above follows from that first sentence.

Out of interest, I read 12 other articles about CPP online. Many people concurred with the above points, but there were some other interesting ideas too:

• Prevents fungal and pest attack

• Encourages vital processes in plants

• Introduces a wide range of beneficial organisms

• Provides essential nutrients

• Increases yield or promotes plant growth

• Helps warm soil in early spring

• Improves paramagnetic & conductivity qualities of soil

• Root initiation of cuttings

• Root nodulation & symbiosis with nitrogen-fixing bacteria in legumes

• Neutralises radioactive fallout on soil and plants

• Better taste and colour

• Intensive use of CPP allows for more directed use of Prep 500

• Supports earthly (lime/calcium) and cosmic (silica) forces/processes.

• Makes soil receptive to formative forces

• Mediator between cosmic and terrestrial

Needless to say, none of these claims were supported by reference to actual research. In fact, I did not find a single research paper online with regard to CPP apart from the fallout experiment above and one instance of seeds soaked in stirred CPP mentioned below. Some of the claims are actually things that Prep 500 or 501 are known for – like root nodulation, taste, and colour. Since everyone will likely be using preparations alongside CPP, how are they determining which results can be specifically attributed to CPP? What’s also interesting is that none of these claims seem to be  found in articles about the compost preparations themselves. Somehow, CPP has acquired in the minds of many people these additional benefits beyond those of the cow manure, compost preparations, and calcium it contains, turning it into way more than the sum of its parts.

How do we separate fact from fanciful imagination? In the absence of scientifically conducted trials, it’s anyone’s guess. For example, one article claimed that CPP “increases yield,” based on the fact that after using CPP, their neighbour harvested more bales of hay from their paddock than the previous year. It may well have been due to the CPP – or not. Or partly. We don’t know.

But once reported as a “fact” on the internet, the claim that CPP “increases yield” quickly spreads and becomes increasingly cited as a benefit, eventually being regarded as an established and irrefutable truth. This idea is passed along from person to person, article to article, gaining traction even without solid evidence to support it. I think it’s important to apply one’s own critical thinking and decide whether an unsubstantiated claim makes sense, and fits into the broader context. Just as there is a huge variety of ideas about what CPP can do, many people have also come up with creative ways to use it. This isn’t a criticism – innovation is great!

In fact, if you remember that the compost preparations stimulate breakdown processes by fostering microbial activity, and that composted cow manure is teeming with microorganisms, many of these uses start to make sense. Is there anything you can’t use CPP for? See below.

Again, some of these suggestions, in my understanding, are things we would traditionally use Prep 500 for, such as applying after mowing, dipping cuttings and seedlings. My final question around the use of CPP is this: why is the stirring time limited to just 10, 15, or 20 minutes (depending on who you ask)? Presumably Maria Thun herself came up with this number (that is to say, one of them – which one?). How did she arrive at it? Is it about energy transfer, similar to Prep 500, which requires a full hour of stirring, or is the goal simply to dilute the material? So, what should we believe and how should we use CPP? In my opinion, it doesn’t really matter. Whether you use it as a foliar spray, incorporate it into your potting mix, or dip plant roots in it, it won’t do any harm, and may do some good. However, it might be worth reflecting on why you’re doing what you are doing. Is it just because someone said it’s a “Good Thing” to do? Or because you understand what’s behind the process? Or perhaps you don’t wish to get too tangled up in overthinking it, and just get on and make it and use it. Ultimately, as with all things biodynamic, it’s over to you.

What you can do with CPP – a summary of internet and local advice

• Apply twice yearly to all garden beds or fields.

• Add to Preparation 500 for the last 20 minutes of stirring.

• For adding compost preparations to a heap, encase each one in a small wad of CPP.

• Sprinkle directly onto layers of materials when making a compost heap instead of adding the compost preps to the heap.

• Apply CPP when turning in green manures.

• Apply to pastures after grazing or after cutting for hay.

• Apply to soil around young trees before mulching.

• Crumble directly or sprinkle stirred prep onto animal litter or anything that has a bad rotting smell.

• Dissolve into barrels of liquid manure instead of adding the compost preps.

• Add a handful to each barrow load of potting mix.

• Soak seeds in stirred CPP (large seeds) or CPP slurry (small seeds) prior to sowing (researched5).

• Lob cricket ball sized lumps into dairy farm effluent ponds.

• Add to compost tea.

• Soil inoculant before a crop

• Scatter solid CPP finely into furrows before sowing seed.

• Foliar spray or ground spray to supply plants with nutrients in an available form.

• Foliar mist or compost tea to prevent fungal & pest attack.

• Soak seedlings prior to transplanting.

• Spray bark of trees to stimulate cambium growth.

• Paint onto tree trunks as a component of tree paste.

• Apply as thick paste on pruning cuts and after grafting or coppicing.

• Soak rooting tips of cuttings.

• Add to vase water for longer-lasting cut flowers.

Special thanks to Floris Books, publishers of Maria Thun’s Results from the Biodynamic Sowing and Planting Calendar, for providing photos of Maria Thun. Gita has been involved in biodynamics since 1980, when she and her husband took over a large sheep farm in North Canterbury and converted it to biodynamics.

Gita retired to Golden Bay (Top of the South Island) in 2019 where she takes care of a large vegetable garden and some fruit trees. She can be reached at gitakrenek@gmail.com

(1 )A website about growing wine biodynamically worldwide; see also Barrel Compost, William and Lisa Shock, in Acres USA Feb 2010.

(2 )Radiation and the prosperity of agriculture in Biodynamics spring 2014.

(3) Tackling Nuclear Fallout: 16th international symposium of the international scientific centre of fertilisers: Effect of biodynamic soil additives on uranium uptake by plants.

(4) But bear in mind that the Best Practice Manual is nothing more than a collection of what experienced practitioners all over the world say and do. For example it states a couple of times “Peter Proctor says that…” It does not purport to say what is “correct” and it does not reference research. In fact, in the biodynamic world, there is no “correct,” as a comprehensive survey of international practice has shown. 5 Seed soaks with the biodynamic preparations, Hugh Courtney, in Biodynamics winter 2004. See also Biodynamics NZ website

Practical Biodynamics – an exciting new workshop

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The team at Biodynamics New Zealand have been busy behind the scenes creating an exciting workshop “Practical Biodynamics” – aimed at introducing biodynamics to the keen gardener,  this workshop covers the main principles and practices, whilst you learn the simple steps needed to get started with biodynamics in your own gardens and properties. 

With interest in organic produce and growing methods, continue to gain popularity, biodynamics offers a holistic approach to growing which can enhance any organic or regenerative growing system. Biodynamics is unique, in that, it focuses on working with natures rhythms and uses the biodynamic ‘preparations’, 9 soil remedies made from plants and minerals, to create soil fertility and thriving balanced ecosystems.

Learning new concepts and ways of doing things can often feel overwhelming for those new to biodynamics, this is where the Practical Biodynamics workshop comes in, as it is a fun way to connect with like minded people, learn from a biodynamic practitioner, be introduced to the biodynamic approach and also provides a space for you to ask all your burning biodynamic questions!

Taught by Bridget Henderson a biodynamic practitioner, educator and BDNZ council member, our first Practical Biodynamics workshop was held on Sunday 27th April, 2025 at Ethos Garden.

The day started with a presentation on the main concepts found in biodynamics and then carried on with two hands on activities: burying biodynamic preparation 500 in the ground and spreading it over the Ethos garden.

Participants were also encouraged to bring an empty 2-4 L container so they could take some preparation 500 home to use on own garden or property. We are so pleased to report that the feedback from participants was extremely positive!  

A big thank you to Ethos Garden for providing such a wonderful space to host our workshop in.

BDNZ will be hosting more Practical Biodynamics workshops over the next few months, if you are keen to learn more or to attend one, please keep an eye on the BDNZ facebook page  as we will upload all the details of the event- including location and ticket details, we hope to see you at our next Practical Biodynamics workshop!

Biodynamics decoded

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By Monique Macfarlane

A fundamental aspect of biodynamics is working with the power of the cosmos. Having an understanding and using the influences at play, dramatically affects the health, resilience and growth of the entire farm organism,
humans included.

The Biodynamic Farming and Gardening Calendar, is a key tool in utilising the biodynamic preparations, to ensure appropriate timing of applications and allow the qualities of them to be harnessed. The calendar is created from astrological
information, that which is visible in the sky.

The calendar is not just used for the timing of applications of the biodynamic preparations, but also for sowing seed,
transplanting, spray and biological adjustments, harvesting, drying, and rest days are also included!
Many astrological aspects are detailed in the calendar, including the moon’s path and position in the sky, the illumination of the moon, the distance to Earth, crossing the path of the sun, and also other planetary movements. Here are a few aspects to get familiar with first…

Ascending & descending (moon’s path across our sky):

The moon’s daily path across our sky is always changing, and it is always either ascending, where it appears to be higher in the sky at the same time of day or night the next time it is visible, or descending, where it appears to be lower in the sky.
The cycle takes 27.3 days, as opposed to the 29.5 days for the illumination phases (full, new, etc.). Ascending is much like ‘spring/summer’ and the earth breathes ‘out’ whereas descending is much like ‘autumn/winter’ and the earth breathes
‘in’.

Quick tip: sow seeds in an ascending phase of the moon, and transplant or do soil cultivation in a descending phase.

Constellations & the zodiac:

The moon passes in front of the complete circle of constellations in the zodiac approximately every 27.3 days. It
spends between 1.5 and 3.5 days in each constellation due to the different amount of space each sign takes up in the sky.
Each sign corresponds to an element, and a part of the plant, which in turn corresponds to the crops or tasks to tend to.
Taurus, Virgo & Capricorn: Earth – Root: carrot, potato, garlic, soil health
Gemini, Libra & Aquarius: Air – Flower: cauliflower, broccoli, and flowers
Cancer, Scorpio & Pisces: Water – Leaf: spinach, lettuce, leafy greens
Leo, Sagittarius & Aries: Fire – Fruit / Seed: tomatoes, zucchini, peppers, beans.


New moon & full moon (illumination of the moon):

There is more activity underground in the soil towards the new moon, and the flow of sap is less strong. Turning in green
manure, and cutting hay are often done at this time. Seeds sown 48 hours before the actual full moon are markedly larger
than those sown under a new moon influence. One has to bear in mind however, when sowing at this time, plants are often
weaker and susceptible to fungal attack.


Moon opposition Saturn:

The day before this aspect is one of the best times to sow seed, as calcium (Moon) and silica (Saturn) are in balance, which is essential for strong plant growth. Healthy seedlings and healthy soil allow incredible natural resistance to fungal outbreaks, powdery mildew, blight and insect attack.


The biodynamic preparations & timing of use:

Biodynamic preparations are an incredible resource when creating resilient ecosystems and growing nutrient dense
food. Every aspect of each preparation has a deep connection to particular qualities. Here you will find a brief overview of the preparations, along with some cosmic timings to start using them in your system.

Spray preparations:

Preparation 500 (Horn Manure):

Source: Fresh cow manure, and cow horns, buried through the winter in the earth.
Properties: Enhances the life of the soil increasing terrestrial forces, vegetative and expansive

Timing of application: Typically descending moon, root day in the late afternoon to enhance the earthly forces and
microbial activity.


Preparation 501 (Horn Silica):
Source: Clear quartz (Silicon dioxide) triturated into a fine powder, and cow horns, buried through the summer in the
earth.
Properties: Enhances the cosmic forces, contractive providing warmth and light, ripening, and sturdy form.
Timing of application: Typically ascending moon, at sunrise. The constellation depends on the effect you’re after.

Preparation 508 (Equisetum):
Source: Aerial parts of Horsetail (Equisetum arvense).
Properties: Mediates fungal presence, and balances the water element.
Timing of application: A few days before a new moon when plants are already inwardly contracting. Moon opposition Saturn is also a great aspect for fungal control, or preceding the full moon.

The compost preparations:

Preparation 502 (Yarrow):
Materials: Flowers of Yarrow (Achillea millefolium) and a stag’s bladder.
Properties: Helps the soil draw in substances, support structure, heals wounds.


Preparation 503 (Chamomile):
Materials: Flowers of German Chamomile (Matricaria chamomilla) and small intestine of a cow.
Properties: Helps to stabilise plant nutrients and invigorate plant growth, and calm the chaos within the compost.


Preparation 504 (Nettle):
Source: Aerial parts of Stinging Nettle (Urtica dioica) and clay tiles.
Properties: Develops sensitivity in the soil, and helps to stabilise nitrogen.


Preparation 505 (Oak Bark):
Source: Oak bark (Quercus robur) and the skull of a domestic animal.
Properties: Helps increase a plant’s resistance to disease, increases flocculation so the compost doesn’t become anaerobic.


Preparation 506 (Dandelion):
Source: Flowers of Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale) and the mesentery of a cow.
Properties: Activates light influences in the soil.


Preparation 507 (Valerian):
Source: Flowers of Valerian (Valeriana officinalis) and rainwater.
Properties: Protection, temperature regulation.


CPP (Cow Pat Pit):
All of the compost preparations are present in this formulation.
Source: Cow manure has been allowed to age with the influence of all the preparations inserted as a ‘set’.
Properties: This is a great way to get the influence of all the compost preparations out in one go.
Timing: Compost preparations help to regulate the mineral household by bringing it into harmonious balance and are used as a ‘set’, typically added to compost when making, or to CPP. Both are made on a descending moon, root day. In time, compost preparations can be used individually, to activate and enhance desired qualities.

The biodynamic preparations are available for purchase by members, from Biodynamics NZ. Members also receive either a digital or printed calendar each year. To become a member (see inside cover), or to purchase individual copies of the calendar, visit biodynamic.org.nz


About the author:
Monique Macfarlane of Natural Wisdom teaches a variety of workshops such as biodynamics, planting by the moon, no-dig
food growing, and seasonal approaches to gardening and self sufficiency. Her heartfelt passion for food, localisation, and
thriving nature is the foundation of her incredible offerings.
See www.natural-wisdom.net for more information.

Land Based Primary Production Students in Action

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On a ‘descending root day’ the North Auckland, Land Based Training: Sustainable Primary Production students gathered at Shelly Beach Farm to dig up last year’s cow horns and spread 500 on the pasture. By all accounts it was a great social event.

Bridget Henderson has shared with us some fantastic photos of the students in action and the following observation;

“When the horns were laid down we buried some with openings facing down and some lying on their sides.  Upon digging up, the ones facing down had not turned as well as the ones on their sides.. interesting!”

We would like to thank Bridget for sharing with us these fabulous images – its great to see biodynamics in action!

If you have any images and stories of events you have attended around New Zealand, we would love to hear from you and feature your event in our monthly members newsletter, or here on the blog.

Please email secretary@biodynamic.org.nz to share your stories and images.

Get Ready For Spring!

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Spring Equinox inches closer with the usual August snow and frosts one day and clear sunny warm days the next; encouraging the bulbs and fruit tree buds towards blossoming… Spring is on its way!   

We are now heading into one of the busiest times in the Biodynamic year. It is a last opportunity to prune fruit trees and vines, apply tree paste, spread out compost and CPP to stabilise the Spring growth forces. Its also time to sow seeds for Spring and Summer planting, prepare to dig up the Horn Manure 500 horns and stir and spray Horn Silica 501, as bud burst occurs on fruiting plants.

To help you with your planning some key dates are:

  • September 3rd with ascending new moon opposition Saturn in Leo, in front of Sun sign Leo, for seed sowing, or spraying Horn Silica 501 if you have fruit trees and have already put out several lots of Horn manure 500.

  • The Sun moves in front of the Virgin, just into the early morning of the 18th September with a Perigee Full Moon Lunar Eclipse that day, and a Node on the 19th.  Consequently it might be best to either dig up your BD500 horns, or stir 500 on Sunday 15th September, or wait until the 22nd/23rd/24th September and join the crowds!

  • 100 Years Spring Equinox Countrywide Stir Sunday 22nd September 3pm! With Spring Equinox not far off, Biodynamics New Zealand invites you to gather together with friends, regional groups, and BD whanau to stir some Horn Manure 500 or CPP to enliven your properties. The Moon will be in a descending phase in earth (root) sign Taurus on the 22nd and 23rd September, so perfect timing for some down to Earth action.

If you are keen to participate in the 100 years Spring Equinox Stir, please send in a photo or short reel to Jayne secretary@biodynamic.org.nz in doing so you agree to have your images/videos posted on social media or used in our monthly 500Footnote email.  

All those who send in photos or videos will go in the draw to win a prize pack that includes a Brian Keats calendar, the Biodynamic Farming and Gardening Calendar and a preparation pack of 500, 501 and CPP.

Entries are open to New Zealand residents only and close at 5pm September 29th and the winner will be drawn on October 1st, 2024. The winner will be contacted directly and posted in the October footnote and featured on social media.

Good luck to all who enter, we cannot wait to see your photos and videos!

Seed Baths

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Harvest Article – Spring 2021. Graeme Roberts explains how to soak seeds in biodynamic preparations for increased plant health.

Article excerpt reprinted with permission from Elementals Journal #135.

Most seed used by conventional (chemical) farmers is usually treated to protect the seed from pests and fungal attack. These coatings are generally toxic to the microorganisms in the soil.

Sattler and Wistinghausen, in their book Bio-Dynamic Farming Practice, discuss seed baths in some detail, along with grain selection and germination trials.

They note that Martha Kuenzel and Franz Lippert have done numerous seed bath trials over many years and developed a seed treatment that strengthens the vitality and resistance of plants. Their experiments investigated the benefits to different plants whose seeds were treated by pre-soaking with particular biodynamic preparations.

Read more
Applying for Demeter Certification

Biodynamics, Cow Dung and Best Practice: A Viticulturist Journey by Jared Connolly

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Harvests Article – Summer 2016

My biodynamic journey began in 1999 while studying organic growing with Holger Kahl at Seven Oaks in Christchurch. We were fortunate to have Ian Henderson teach our class the basics of animal husbandry at Milmore Downs, and I had the opportunity to plough paddocks and dig soil pits at Terrace Farms with Geoff and Ira Wilson. We also picked chamomile flowers at Hohepa Farm in Halswell with Marinus La Rooij.

All three of these occasions in my two years of learning ignited a very strong desire to create a life working and learning with this approach called biodynamics.

Read more
preparation 500

Mangawhai Biodynamics Community Day

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Northern Kaipara Biodynamics Constellation – Sunday 27th March 3-5.30pm

Making BD Horn Manure 500 and stir at Pauline Mann’s place: 28 Molesworth Dr, Mangawhai  

All welcome. Koha appreciated.

Txt Christine Moginie 0211796471 to register.

We are also needing cow horns please and happy to pay post and koha. Thank you

Motueka Steiner School Workshop Series; Su Hoskin – Making the Biodynamic Preparations

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The Kete Ora Trust has granted funding to the Motueka Rudolf Steiner School Trust (MRSST) to offer 8 community workshops in the theory and practice of biodynamics in home gardens, marae, market gardens, farms, schools and our Steiner School Farm. The tutors are highly experienced biodynamic farmers and gardeners who will guide you through both theory and hands-on learning. Our vision is to form a regional biodynamic hub which will produce quality BD preparations under guidance and  continue to provide community and sector education in biodynamics.  

Date: Saturday 26th March 2022  – Autumn Equinox

Time: 10am to 5pm 

Su has spent over a decade practicing biodynamic farming principles on home gardens, a mixed farm, vineyards and more recently a local food forest and allotments in New Zealand. In 2012 Su set up a charitable trust which holds informal discussions, runs workshops, demonstrations and seminars, providing support for new and existing BD practitioners. In 2015 Su gained  her Certificate in Applied Organics and Biodynamics from Taruna College. She later went on to help coordinate the same course in her own region, Central Otago. Between 2015 and 2018 she completed a term on the New Zealand Biodynamic Association Council  and has been a trustee on the Kete Ora Trust for many years.  

Venue:  From 10am to lunchtime in Ahi Classroom at the Motueka Steiner School, 165 Robinson Rd. Please park inside the main entrance and walk up to the Ahi classroom or get a lift from others. There is limited parking close to Ahi. 

The practical afternoon session on “Making the Biodynamic Preparations” and burying them will be held at the Steiner School Farm, 49 School Rd. 

BYO: lunch; boots in case of wet weather; extra-grip plastic gloves. 

Register: your name with carolynhughes@foulis.nz These workshops are each limited to 20 people so registrations are on a first come first serve basis.  

Koha: The suggested Koha for the day is $45. Please transfer your Koha  online to the Motueka Rudolf Steiner School Trust (MRSST) account number 03-1354-0296448-05.  

Please use as the reference: Your surname (abbreviated if need be) followed by first initial of your first name and then KO KOHA  (this stands for for Kete Ora Koha). Eg your name reference could be SmithJ KO Koha 

Looking forward to seeing you at the Steiner School Farm on Saturday 26th March 2022.